The Real Abiquiu
Following our five-night adventure on the Rio Chama and a Labor Day night at Ghost Ranch, and on our way back to civilization, Kathy and I made the usual stop at Bode's General Store on U.S. Hwy. 84 for some gas, unique atmosphere, and restrooms -- and a chocolate milkshake at the adjacent Frosty Cow. I had always considered this tiny outcropping of commerce to be Abiquiu. But the real town is actually across the highway and up a hill past the post office by way of an unpaved road. Well, actually, not so much a town as "a small census-designated place located in Rio Arriba County."
Having some extra time, we decided to venture up the hill to see the "real" Abiquiu. We were unaware that this small community includes one of Georgia O'Keefe's two homes in the immediate area (the other being at Ghost Ranch). Now known as the Georgia O'Keefe Home and Studio, the house was purchased by her from the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Santa Fe in 1945. It was her primary residence until she moved to Santa Fe in 1984. We will have to stop for a tour the next time we visit the area. However, we were quite taken with what we did see.
Dominating the small town square is Santo Tomas El Apostol church. The original church was built in 1773, and the current adobe structure dates to 1937.
Across the square from the church is the Pueblo de Abiquiu Library and Cultural Center. This tile mosaic adorns its exterior wall next to the entrance.
Further up the hill and on the outskirts of the town is this mysterious adobe structure. It is the Penitente Morada. For one traveler's description of this chapel, the (formerly secret) society that built and maintains it, and her experience in participating in a religious ceremony there, see this well-written blog post.
Note: Click on any photograph to see it in full scale.
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